User blog:ME7/How did you get that much gold??

"How did you get that much gold??" I get asked this sometimes. Some people just assume I hacked... nope. Last time I used a cheat code I was a teenager on a gaming console. The victory felt empty and I stopped right there. I have tried to document my accumulation of gold as much as I can here. NOTE: A lot of the numbers are from memory so I am estimating.

There are 2 main factors; how much you earn and how much you spend. Both of those are affected by strategy and skill level. I will explain both.

Where my gold came from :


 * I have earned all Achievements except the Hall of Fame Level 500 & Level 1000 rewards. I seriously doubt I will ever reach level 1000... but some have.
 * At this time I have spent about 3000 hours in the game, earned over R$500 million & over 100 million fame. NOTE: Those hours include every second spent with the game open. That means time spent edited vinyls, watching ads and the like all count.
 * I used to race the 5 lap Suzuka GP race in Accolade Open at least once a day with the Agent hired.


 * After getting the Ferrari F40 I raced the 4 lap Le Mans race in Classic Ferrari Showdown at least once a day with the Agent hired.


 * Then I got into Endurance Kings early due to a sale and spent all my currency unlocking the 10 lap Le Mans race. I ran that at least once a day with the Agent hired.


 * When Endurance Champions came out, I switched to that 10 lap Le Mans race as it pays a little more fame.


 * There are double fame periods where you get 100% or double fame on every race. Hire the Agent and you get 4X fame on races. In those periods I would race as much as possible. I would usually earn 800 gold in those 48 hours doing about 40 of the 10 lap Le Mans races.


 * With update 5.2 came the best farming race in the game, Porsche Short Track Endurance. I have run thousands and thousands of laps there in the Ferrari FXX K Exclusive_Series. You can run it in many cars, but that one pays the most fame/lap. I recently ran 1000 km with 4X fame and got about 1.1 million fame. It took about 5.5 hours.


 * In version 4.4, all the Time Trials were reset in Career. It was possible to get a lot of series completion bonuses if you used the right method. I got about another 800 gold there.


 * I used to run a lot of team events. I was in some top 50 teams at a point. I eventually found that what I earned was not worth the 6 to 10 hours a day that were required by these teams. HOWEVER, I learned a lot by being on those teams and don’t regret it at all. I now just join a top team for Top Speed events as I can usually got a worlds class time up in 2 hours and earn decent gold because the team also pulls their weight.


 * I sometimes make a 1-man team and get all the team goal rewards myself. Take the February 11, 2018 Speed Snap Challenge for example. I ran 330 speed snaps in the McLaren P1 GTR. I slowed down the bots first so I could win un-serviced every time. Just for running the 330 races I earned 132,000 fame and R$610,500. I also earned 60 gold and R$150,000 in team goal rewards. Finally I got R$1,000,000 for my 1-man teams placing when the event ended. So for 3 hours of racing I got 76 gold (factoring in fame earned) and R$1,760,500. Some people will put in 10+ hours of racing to get their team high enough to earn the lowest gold prize which is often 300 gold, all to themselves!


 * Sometimes there is a sale where you can get 1019 gold for 80% off. I bought that twice. It was a good move for me and helped me get into the LMP1 cars earlier. Now that doesn’t matter as much with the Porsche Short Track Endurance races. You can get into great farming races now for far less gold and R$.


 * Firemonkeys (aka FM, tech support) gave me about 3,000 gold total in compensation for various errors. Some were huge errors that took them 9 months to fix. Others weren’t as bad. At one point many people who had open tickets had all their tickets closed and 1,500 gold credited to their accounts. I guess FM just decided to clear their backlog of complaints. So it’s always good to submit a ticket when you have an issue HERE.


 * For a long time now, I always finish in Group B in the Weekly Time Trial Tournament. That earns me 100 gold/week. In the 1st Formula-E tournament I finished in Group B. In 2nd one I fought hard and got Group A. I think that’s 150 gold for the 2 of them.


 * I always collect all “Daily Reward” bonuses and I have Elite status which increases them.


 * I earn 10 gold and $R40,000 each day from watching ads. It’s possible to get 20 gold a day and a lot of R$ in ads, but I think you have to watch 192 ads for that… too much for me!!


 * NOTE: Prior to August 2016, the daily rewards were just a % of $R on your first race. Ads were also just gold, I got 5 a day.

Ways to save gold:
 * Use "bot slowing" to lower targets and get slower bots in races. That is covered HERE.
 * Buy only the upgrades you need to finish the series. THIS page is critical for achieving that. It may seem a little complicated at first, but it's well worth understanding!
 * Wait for sales on expensive cars & upgrades. The RR3 Wiki has info for all sales the will appear in an update within a few days of the update coming out. They also have pages showing all past sales. THIS can help you figure out if a car will ever have a sale. For example, Ferrari’s very rarely have sales.
 * Learn no assist, Tilt B driving. It will make you faster so that you can win cars and complete series with less upgrades. It will also allow you to run the most profitable races in the game at the Porsche Short Track Endurance. Once you master it, you can drive there as long as you want to in several cars. You can drive there with Tilt A, but Tilt B is easier when you’re just learning it.

The following may eventually be a separate blog, but it certainly fits here as well.

 The problem with Assists and Tilt A :

Assists teach you wrong driving. You'll know this when you first turn them all off. Your car will be all over the track and you will crash at almost every corner. WHY??? Read on: Videos :
 * Traction Control (aka TC) : It brakes in places where you don't even need brakes. Usually it comes on because you drove into a corner too fast or put on the brakes too late. This makes you slower.
 * Brake Assist (aka BA) : Both settings teach you bad habits.
 * High brakes too early, brakes WAY too often, stays on too long and even brakes when no brakes are required. This wastes time and speed.
 * Low brakes too late. This then makes your TC kick in and/or you go flying off-track. It also will brake in some places where you don't need any brakes. This wastes time and speed.
 * Steering Assist (aka SA) :
 * Both settings limit your race line ! Take the first 4 corners of Nurburgring GP or Sprint Circuit. SA will try and make you take more of the middle line through those 1st 4 corners of lap 1, just like the bots. So turning off SA lets you take the low line and pass many of them. Same with many tracks. SA will try and force you into a certain line at the start. Every subsequent lap is fine.
 * It KILLS your time when you go off-track ! Slide off-track by accident and SA will make you run somewhat parallel to the track as you try to get back on. This wastes precious time. It will let you drive differently if you are REALLY off-track, but it will snap you parallel as you near the track.
 *  What if you want to go off-track on purpose for cuts ?? It will fight you and twist you around. It is trying to help you steer as the track is designed... too limiting for the most part
 * Exceptions : Indy Speedway & Daytona Speedway. I always run SA high here. You need VERY nimble movements when navigating those corners at maximum speed. SA high seems to give a slight virtual boost to grip. It doesn't really, but it feels that way. What it does is that is smooths out your movements a little. Watch my Indy Endurance video in the P1 GTR (below) and you'll see what I mean. Some top Time Trial racers also use it. That makes sense when there's no off-track allowed and no bots to pass. However it will ruin some tracks, like the bus-stop section of Porsche Test track.
 * Tilt A problems :
 * Tilt A is either 100% gas or 100% brakes. In real racing, they feather the throttle for control in the corners a lot. We are taught in basic driving what to do when we lose control and skid... put the car in neutral. Both gas & brakes will usually prolong the out-of-control skid.
 * When I run Tilt A and I lose it, I just keep sliding into the wall or off-track. When I run Tilt B I lift to coast, slightly steer INTO the skid and regain control fast. Watch my Endurance races at Porsche Short Track (Below) and you will quickly see what I mean. When I lose control off-track, I lift until I regain it. I also feather a lot in the corners.
 *  Tilt A with Assists is the worst !
 * Picture the following scenario. You drive into a corner and BA brakes too late. TC comes on to correct your skid. Both TC and BA then go off, but you are still 100% gas... so TC comes on again! On big wide corners, it just keeps going on and off. Brake at the right time, feather the gas until you can get full throttle and you will be further ahead.
 * Tilt B advantages :
 * The option to coast, no gas or brakes.
 * The ability to feather the gas.
 * Virtual Tilt A ability. When you press gas and brakes at the same time, you just get gas. You will notice in my videos that both pedals are on as I near most corners. As soon as I lift off the gas, the brakes apply. This also helps me not to drop my phone when switching thumbs! Then I lift off the brakes and feather back into the gas, or floor it.
 *  The transition :
 * Switch to Tilt B first and get used to it.
 * Then turn off TC & BA. Both really hurt you. BA low could be kept on as a safety net, but it will brake sometimes when you don't need brakes. Hockenheimring GP & National are great examples. There are 1 or 2 corners that you can drive flat out in almost every car, but BA will apply the brakes. I say 1 or 2 as it depends on the car. Some cars will brake 3 times at Hockenheimring GP with BA low when you can run it flat out!
 * When you turn off SA, remember to increase your steering sensitivity by 3. So if you run 5, go up to 8. Slowly work your way down if you want to. When I first went no assists I ran steering on 10! I've slowly lowered it for smoother handling. Now I run 2 or 3,  except for F1 cars where I run 0.
 * I started by turning off assists when I had a BIG lead, this is a good start. If you mess up, just turn them back on again by pausing and going into settings.